This is the change I made on the RX-78-2 Ver 2.0. It is not the part I f'ed up. More on that later.
I mentioned in the last entry how the clear parts for the leg armour had the large knee piece placed directly over the kneecap piece. In my opinion this is not that well thought out. The point of the clear armour, as far as I know, is to show what is going on underneath, but to see one more clear piece beneath a clear piece seems odd. So I put the original knee cap armour back on and it looks much better. Don't you think?Since taking that picture I have also replaced one clear armour part from each piece of side armour as it gives it a better effect.
And I started on the torso of the Ver 2.0 (the GM 2.0 is exactly the same.) This design is really well done and it has a lot of articulation. Interestingly, the pistons point towards the rear of the mecha.
Now we will discuss how I almost busted up the legs of the RX-78-2 Ver Ka.
In this picture you can see the hollow that is the polycap. When I originally assembled the leg frames, I had the pvc piece inserted opposite of how it should be, so that it protruded from the leg frame.
The result, when trying to attach the leg armour, looked like this.
I couldn't figure out where I went wrong. I tried gently pushing it together but it didn't work. I tried using a little more pressure and broke off a small piece of one of the armour pieces (it can't be seen when assembled properly so no harm done). I even tried using my hobby knife to shave some pieces smaller thinking that would help. Perhaps assembling Gundam at 6 am isn't a great idea. I put it aside and came back to it that evening and noticed my error when I checked the manual. In order to fix it I had to pop off the armour, take out the screws, separate the leg frame pieces, flip the polycap around and then reassemble everything.
Compared to the new Ver 2.0 the Ver Ka is simple. Really simple. In fact, to see just how simple it is, check out the picture below.
At 6 AM the following day I opened the Ver Ka back up again and assembled the whole thing in an hour. Before topcoating for decal work I will separate it into sections (legs, arms, torso, etc) and use my utility knife and sandpaper to remove any nubs.
Next blog entry will be a comparison of the core fighter from the Ver Ka and Ver 2.0.
Sweet looking clear parts! Where did you get the extra clear parts from? And will you be using G-markers to do any interior detailing underneath the clear parts?
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to your core figher comparison.